Napier to Gisborne

We had a great few days in Napier during Art Deco weekend, a festival celebrating all things 1920s and 1930s. Napier markets itself to tourists as the Art Deco Capital since many of its buildings were rebuilt in the art deco style after the 1931 earthquake. The atmosphere was fantastic walking around town with everyone in 1920s/1930s style dress, vintage cars driving around, and WW2 planes circling overhead. There were also lot of events on, both free and pre-booked.

Aerial display

Obviously we were a little unprepared on the clothing front as we didn’t know it was on until after we arrived. However, we got Dave some braces and I managed to dig out some shoes and jewellery that looked vaguely 1930s and we got dressed up for a night on the town. Our swing dancing lessons came in handy for the evening big band concert too. We caught up with our friends Helen and Luke, and some fellow dancers from the Full Swing dance school in Wellington, all of who were in Napier for the weekend of festivities.

The marina in Napier is a few miles out from the centre, but there are quite a few nice cafes, bars and shops in the area as they have developed West Quay and Ahuriri village. We were particularly happy to find a good Mediterranean food market and gourmet butchers just a short walk away. We stocked up on lots of tasty goodies that we haven’t been able to get our hands on since Wellington.

Tasty treats

Napier Marina looking onto West Quay

After a few of days of land-based fun we decided it was time to cast off the dock lines and set sail for Gisborne. The journey from Napier to Gisborne was an overnight trip of approx. 100 miles, taking us 22 hours. It was a fairly unpleasant passage beating into 20kts of wind with waves and swell. Because the boat was so bouncy in the wind and waves it made sleep impossible. To add insult to injury I was incapacitated by sea sickness for the first time on this whole trip, which meant Dave had to do more than his fair share of the night watches. The approach into Gisborne harbour was easy and we didn’t have to worry about tides as the channel is deeply dredged due to all of the cargo ships that come in and out. There is a small marina next to the port, which is adjacent to the town centre. We arrived exhausted, but joyous for finally having solid ground under our feet again. We treated ourselves to a large pub dinner after the long night and day spent getting here.

Life on passage - sailing with 2nd reef in main and full Genoa, rails in the water

The next morning another yacht pulled into the marina that we had seen on our sail up from Napier. As we had passed them on our way, we assumed they were carrying on further north. It turns out their journey was even more arduous than our own after blowing out their main sail and arriving in Gisborne much later that same night, after a very slow sail. They had to anchor outside the sea wall in the dark and wait until the next morning before coming into the marina. We’re planning to carry on into the Bay of Plenty soon and are looking forward to spending some nights away from marinas. At $35 a night in Gisborne, and $22 in Napier, the costs can soon add up after a few days.

Picton to Napier

After a good week of watching the weather we finally got our window of opportunity to sail north. We originally planned to sail all the way to Gisborne, but after finding out there was a fishing tournament on and there would be little room in the marina for us, we decided to stop in Napier instead.

The journey from Picton to Napier was approx. 250 miles and took around 55 hours. Of those 55 hours, 28 hours were spent motoring in no wind, and the rest of the time was spent sailing into a headwind. The journey was not without its challenges; weather, seasickness, fatigue, sailing at night, and the challenges of doing everyday activities such as showering and cooking on a moving boat. However, we planned for those challenges, which made a big difference to our confidence and comfort during the passage.

Being escorted across Palliser Bay  

We spent quite a lot of time preparing during our last days in the Marlborough Sounds. One of the things we found difficult was knowing what weather to look for in choosing when to go. We had a lot of piecemeal advice from other sailors we had met but couldn’t find any definitive advice on what weather to look for. Probably there is no ideal forecast but a variety of trade-offs to be made depending on which winds you choose. We spent a lot of time scrutinising the MetService weather forecasts and even decided to pay for a weather routing service, PredictWind, to help us plan. We also spent time checking the tide times for Tory Channel and the Cook Strait, and plotting out our route with waypoints on both paper and electronic charts. Overnight we took turns to do 3-hour watches. We also spent the day before we left cooking all of our meals for 3 days so we only had to heat up food while on the move.

Sunset on the first night as we rounded Cape Palliser

We chose to leave Tory Channel in a dying southerly, the previous days had been blowing 30+kts in Cook Strait. We headed out at 10am, two hours after Picton high tide and timed so that we would not have too much current leaving Tory Channel, and also so we would not pass through Karori rip at mid tide. The forecast for the Cook Strait was for a 20kt southerly wind dying out so we had our smaller headsail rigged.  As usual we had the short turbulent waves going around Cape Terawhiti and Sinclair Head, but overall the Cook Strait was relatively calm with a little swell and a moderate sea. We had a pod of dolphins join us across Palliser Bay, and they kept returning to the boat several times to keep us company. Just before we started to round Cape Palliser, around 10pm, the wind died off and we had to turn the engine on and motor for the rest of the night. There is a large lighthouse at Cape Palliser that is visible up to 26 miles offshore and another lighthouse just a little further along the Wairarapa coast. It was really nice to be able to see clearly where the coastline was during our watches on the first night.  The night watches were generally uneventful, with the exception of some dolphins swimming around the boat at 1am in the bio-luminescence, which Dave tells me looked spectacular – I was sleeping.

Motoring along the Wairarapa coast in zero wind and zero swell

The next day we decided to swap our headsails from our smaller headsail (100% jib) that we had used in the stronger winds in Cook Strait to our larger headsail (130% Genoa) that would be more suitable for the lighter breezes that were forecast for the rest of our trip. We had only ever changed the headsails before while the boat was stationary in the marina. Hauling out the large headsail through our front hatch, dropping the smaller headsail and swapping them over, all the while bobbing around in swell, was a little more challenging. Apart from wrapping the halyard around the forestay on the first hoist and having to drop it again to sort the lines out, it went smoothly. Once we successfully got the bigger headsail rigged, it was well worth the effort as we were able to sail at a respectable 4-5 knots in light 10kt northeast winds for the rest of the day. We also had some more dolphins come to visit us throughout the day, which provided some relief from the general monotony.

More dolphins!

The second night, Dave was on watch tacking us around Cape Turnagain. It was a little unnerving as we tacked our way around the headland with no lighthouse. It was difficult to judge how far away the land was in the dark, and we were grateful for the radar and GPS.  At about 1am, the wind shifted slightly as I was about to start my watch. With the two of us up and about we tacked the boat and I sailed us for another hour until the wind died off again. I gave Dave the fright of his life when I turned the engine on, forgetting as it roared to life that he was sleeping in the back cabin with his head right next to the engine compartment.

Sunset as we sailed around Cape Turnagain

It was interesting to see the change in the coastal landscape on the third morning, which was much drier close to Napier compared with the dark green, rugged landscape around the south coast and Wairarapa. As we rounded Cape Kidnappers the wind came back in and we had a nice 4-5 hour sail across Hawkes Bay. The entrance to the marina in Napier is quite shallow and it’s better to go in on at least half-tide. Thankfully our timing worked out well and it was almost high tide when we came in. It would have sucked if we had needed to wait for the tide after such a long sail. Unknown to us this weekend happens to be the Art Deco festival in Napier so we’re going to stick around for a few days to enjoy the festivities.

Finally on a beam reach as we sailed away from Cape Kidnappers

The waiting game

After six weeks exploring the Marlborough Sounds and Abel Tasman our time here is coming to an end. We now feel that we’ve seen most of what the area has to offer and are looking forward to heading northward for a change of scenery.

We’re both looking forward to the journey north with excitement and nervous anticipation. The journey from Marlborough to Gisborne, around 300 miles, will probably be the most challenging stretch of coastline on our entire trip. The weather between here and Gisborne is notoriously bad. The good news is that we have plenty of time to wait for a decent weather forecast. The bad news is that requires a lot of patience. For example, the Cook Strait experiences a high percentage of days per year with gale force winds, which means there could be a lot of waiting involved. In addition to the weather, we’ll have to deal with a straight 48hr+ sail, and taking it in turns to sleep or keep watch, something that we’ve not done before. We’re expecting it to be both a physically and mentally challenging couple of days.

Luke and Helen on board Desolina

Still, we’re making the most of our last few days in Marlborough. We were joined by some friends, Helen and Luke, from Wellington for Waitangi weekend, and had a great couple of days with them showing them how to sail Desolina. We sailed out to Endeavour Inlet on the first day from Picton and took them for a walk up to the viewpoint on the Queen Charlotte track overlooking both Ship Cove and Resolution Bay on the second day. Luke brought his drone and GoPro camera with him and we got some excellent aerial shots of Desolina.

Still footage from the Drone

We’ve also been exploring a few of the coves we didn’t make it to last time around, mostly around Grove Arm. We had a nice day at Lochmara Lodge for a spot of lunch and a walk. I would highly recommend Lochmara as a place to stop off for a day trip or a longer stay, especially if you have young children. The lodge has extensive grounds with sculptures and a wildlife recovery centre. In particular, we had great fun feeding the Kakariki, one of New’s Zealand native parakeets.

Feeding the Kakariki

Punga people at Lochmara Lodge

Desolina and the Sea of Destiny

And now for something a little silly.

Ruth, sorry for lowering the tone of your blog ;)

Dave

It's not always smooth sailing

I imagine quite a few of our friends and family have been a little envious at some point while reading this blog (well ok, they’ve told me as much), and most of the time, envy is probably justified. After all, why would we be doing this if most of the time it wasn’t a lot more fun than sitting in the office? But, I want this blog to reflect all of the realities of our sailing trip and not just the best parts. So, here are a couple of things that have happened in the last week that have not been so much fun. Admittedly, nothing too terrible, just enough stress or discomfort to make me wish for a few fleeting minutes that I was back on dry land.

The sun doesn't always shine when you're sailing

On dry land, you don’t have to worry about your home going walkabout!

Anchoring is definitely both a science and an art. When choosing an anchorage we must take into account the depth, the type of sea floor (mud, sand, rocky), tides, wind speed and direction, swell, and our distance from the shore and any neighbouring boats. In Abel Tasman, we also had to account for the wind shift that happens twice daily due to the sea breeze. This meant that Desolina would usually sit on the anchor during the day facing out of the bay into the sea breeze, but swing around to face into the bay in the evening when the wind dropped off. As the boat swings around the anchor, the direction of pull on the anchor changes, and the anchor needs to re-set itself.

The Anchorage

On one of our last days in Abel Tasman we left the boat to go for a walk after sleeping the previous night on the anchor and then waiting for the sea breeze to turn the boat around and the anchor to re-set itself. We assumed all was fine as we didn’t notice the anchor dragging at all before we left and the anchor had re-set itself all of the previous days without fail. However, we got a shock when we returned to the boat later that day and found that our neighbours had needed to secure Desolina after she went on a little walkabout dragging the anchor behind her. We can only assume that on this one occasion, the anchor did not re-set itself successfully and we didn’t notice any drag before we left because there wasn’t much wind. We are incredible grateful for the help we received in this instance. We hate to think what the outcome might have been if we had been anchored alone in the bay. This incident has definitely dented our confidence and no doubt we shall be double and triple checking the anchor in future.

On dry land you aren’t kept awake all night by violent rocking (except maybe in an earthquake!)

We have definitely had a few uncomfortable night bobbing up and down on the boat. Probably the worst night we had was at Adele Island in Abel Tasman the night before we had a 5am start to sail back to Marlborough. Neither of us got much sleep that night as the boat lurched back and forth in the waves and there was nowhere we could go to escape it. After a night of very little sleep, a 5am start and seven hours of beating into wind and waves to get back across Tasman Bay we were definitely two very tired and grumpy sailors.

Adele Island

But after all that’s said and done, to quote a cruising couple that we met who were in their 80’s, you forget the bad memories and remember the good one’s, otherwise you wouldn’t still be sailing.